Where
you eat lunch in this city is a matter of class. Lately, I've been
going to an old-style luncheonette, owned, like all such places
seem to be these days, by Greek immigrants. The place is one of
the last of a dining breed: They make a superb egg salad sandwich
for a buck less than the $4.50
the yuppie "food bar" charges, and I can get
a cup of good New York coffeeand two refillsfor about
a third of what Starfuck's charges. You have to open the bathroom
door by sliding a butter knife they keep on the draining tray between
the latch and the framethe waitress showed me how, and, with
this knowledge, I feel initiated into the inner sanctum. The diner
is a comfortably blue-collar place, like the neighborhood in Brooklyn
where I grew up, filled with guys who read the New York Post back-to-front.
Me, I
like to spend my lunch hour at the counter, drinking my three cups
of coffee, with a highbrow-type book like Commodify
Your Dissent open in front of me. I sit by the grill
not just because it's warmer or because I can flirt with the waitress,
but because it gives me the best observation post. I'd rather watch
the chaos than read. During the lunch rush, the staff moves in efficient
patterns of balletic violence, the waitresses squeezing past one
another, the busboys joking in Spanglish, the old guy at the grill
who barely speaks English, his hands unencumbered by the plastic-bag
gloves they wear in the corporate cafeteria, neatly bisecting a
corned-beef on rye like an iaido master.
It's
not too much different, in a way, than what goes on in my office,
twenty-three floors above the street, where people are also always
demanding that they be given what they want right now. Rather than
isolated from the rest of humanity in climate-controlled little
cubicles, though, hunched over plastic-and-glass computer terminals,
tearing their hair out over bits of data, the diner staff is actually
doing something, making something, giving it to people, running,
yelling, arguing. The diner has an animalistic vitality that is
wholly alien to the civil, bloodless protocols of my workplace.
If I
were to go out on a date with a girl like one of the college-educated,
left-leaning types whom I work with, and I told her that I worked
as a short-order cook or an auto mechanic or a welder, never mind
what my degree is and what languages I speak and what books I read,
or this Web site or the book I'm writing: I'd never get a second
date. Sure, she might sleep with me, hoping that maybe I'd impart
some of my blue-collar machismo on her, but as future boyfriendor
husband-materialforget it. It's a function of class: Working
with your hands lacks status.
But I
don't feel that way. The more we try to crawl our way up the ladder,
the more enslaved we are.